Adding
height to a permanent Hornby layout base board
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A permanent Hornby layout
base board can give a very 2 dimensional (or flat) experience. Going
into the third dimension by adding height and depth to a layout can
seem a daunting task but the rewards are really worth it. With height
you can have:
- Hillsides
- Mountains
- Bridges
- Viaducts
- Tunnels
- Cuttings
- Ditches
- etc...
This article explains one
way to add height to your Hornby base board. This method requires
little skill but will need some wood working capability.
For this article we have
produced a small N gauge demonstration layout built with spare materials
left over from other projects. This base board is approximately 18"
(450mm) x 12" (300mm). The scene is an old railway yard with
a single terminating track adjacent to a hillside.
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This is the completed hillside
we have produced to demonstrate the process. We have used plywood off
cuts, chicken wire mesh, hessian cloth and plaster of paris. The track
underlay is cut from a sheet of 2mm thick Funky Foam to suit N gauge.
All these materials are standard
items available at your local DIY store, hobby stores and on-line.
As this is a demonstration
piece small amounts of the layout remain unfinished showing the processes
used.
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Once the hillside general
form is developed then hillside support templates are cut from corrugated
cardboard. These can be shaped and re-shaped until you have your desired
shape.
These templates are secured
to the base board at fixed intervals with masking tape. Each template
is individually numbered as is the base board position for each template.
The supports are spaced 70mm
apart from one another.
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When the hillside templates
give the hillside shape needed the template shapes were marked out on
a piece of left over plywood. These were then cut with a jigsaw.
Additional quarter round
wood sections are used to add strength where the supports are secured
to the baseboard.
Here the support pieces are
being trial fitted to the baseboard.
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The hillside supports are
glued into position along with their support pieces. Standard wood
glue is used for this.
These joints aren't visible
on the finished layout so being generous with the glue is of no concern.
For this demonstration
piece a small amount of the hillside will remain unfinished.
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A more detailed image of
hillside support number 4.
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With all the woodwork completed
the wood is sealed with PVA. This will also help the plaster of paris
adhere to the surface.
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This is the base board generously
painted with the PVA. All the woodwork is treated to provide a full
seal.
As this is a demonstration
piece a small strip on the left has not been painted.
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This is what it looks like
once the PVA has fully dried. It dries to clear and looks more like
a varnish finish now.
Only one coat of PVA is required.
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The next step is to add a
fine mesh chicken wire over the hillside supports. We used chicken wire
with an aperture size of approximately 15mm x 20mm.
The chicken wire is cut to
shape and a staple gun used to secure the chicken wire to all the hillside
supports and the baseboard.
The chicken wire can then
be manipulated into the desired shape. Try to avoid the chicken wire
from sagging into the gaps between the hillside supports.
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The chicken wire is trimmed
and the wire ends folded under to remove the sharp edges.
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To support the plaster of
paris a layer of hessian fabric is used. This rough fibrous material
will give the plaster of paris plenty to adhere to.
The hessian is cut roughly
to shape before fitting and trimming.
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The hessian is secured to
the wooden support pieces and base board with staples using the staple
gun.
The hessian should be pulled
fairly tightly to prevent any sagging or unwanted wrinkles. It should
follow the shape of the chicken wire and not alter the shape set by
the chicken wire.
Trim off the excess and any
loose strands from the hessian.
For this demonstration piece
a small amount of chicken wire is left exposed.
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Hessian strips are cut about
25mm (1 inch) wide and in varying lengths. These are used later to reinforce
the plaster of paris.
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Mix 1 part PVA to 9 parts
water and combine fully. The plaster of paris is then added to the water
PVA mix to give the desired creamy consistency.
The plaster of paris is then
applied to the hillside with a standard 25mm (1 inch) paint brush. Ensure
all the hessian is covered and leave to harden.
Working time with plaster
of paris is around 15 minutes so to cover a large area work in small
sections a batch at a time.
For this demonstration piece
a small amount of hessian is left exposed.
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Once the initial layer of
plaster of paris is fully hardened the second, thicker layer is built
up. This time adding the hessian strips to reinforce the plaster of
paris.
Lay the strips in varying
directions to add more strength. Again, a 25mm (1 inch) paint brush
is used to apply the plaster of paris. The same PVA water mix is used
and again work in small section to cover large areas.
The advantage of plaster
of paris is the ability to mould different shapes and forms as it cures,
e.g. a drainage ditch down the hillside.
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Funky Foam is used as a track
underlay. At 2mm thick this raises the track the equivalent of 300mm
(1 foot) above the board or ground level. It also gives some noise insulation
keeping the trains quieter.
Grey Funky Foam is used as
it will be less noticeable under the grey ballast.
The funky foam is secured
to the baseboard with a generous bead of No Nails adhesive. This allows
the track to be level should the base board be uneven.
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This is the track underlay
in position in the yard area of this layout. A steel rule is used to
ensure the top face of the Funky Foam is completely level.
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Plaster of Paris mixed with
a little soft builders sand is applied to create the railway yard surface.
The same water PVA mix was used as before.
It is common in railway yards
for the ground surface to be level with the top surface of the track
sleepers. With the funky foam this gives a thickness of 4 mm for the
plaster of paris.
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This is with the plaster
of paris fully dried. Space has been left around the Funky Foam to clear
the track and to give room for the ballast.
Even though the ground level
is generally the same as the top of the sleepers the track is still
supported by traditional ballast.
The yard surface is also
merged into the hillside surface to give a more realistic change from
yard to hillside.
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This image shows some of
the yard surface detail. There's a rutted track and at the base of the
hillside a drainage ditch. The general surface is a little uneven just
like in real life.
If no details are required
in the yard surface then 4mm thick MDF or plywood could be used to build
the necessary height.
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Finally the plaster of paris
is sealed with a coat of PVA.
For this demonstration piece
a small amount of plaster of paris is left exposed.
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